It’s that time of year again when we starting thinking about New Year’s resolutions. Lose weight, quit smoking and look after yourself better are often high on the list, but have you considered adding a good skincare regime to the list? After all, your skin is your body’s largest organ and if it looks good – so do you.

We spoke to some of Harley Street Emporium’s skincare guru’s to see that they recommend as must do’s for the New Year.

Harley Street Dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting, says 2018 is the year to really get on top of your skincare issues.

• Demand more of your skin:

  Decide that 2018 is going to be a year for getting to the root of complexion issues and that you’re not just going to hide behind make-up. Seek out quality help – this will often make economic sense in the long run. And the improvement in self-esteem from the knowledge that going bare-faced is an option? Priceless.

• Clean up after class: 

  As more and more women switch from gym-going to attending Paola’sBodyBarre and pilates classes, the traditional post work-out shower can get skipped. When sweat lingers on the skin it can trigger breakouts and folliculitis in awkward places like thighs and buttocks. So make sure to wear natural fibre work-out gear which wicks the sweat away from the skin, use an antiseptic wipe (like Murad Clarifying Wipes) to swipe face, chest and back and change into a clean t-shirt. Then shower as soon as the opportunity arises. A product like Dermol 500, which is both moisturising and antibacterial can be really helpful.

• Pay attention to your hands:

  They get exposed to the elements, they are in and out of water and as a consequence can age more rapidly than any other site on the body. Get into the habit of wearing sunscreen on them daily (a moisturising formulation will double as handcream) and rub any residual anti-ageing products onto the backs of hands, rather than the palms.

• Don’t neglect your neck

  (or décolletage, for that matter). Everything should match from the face down to the chest so the same rules apply here, in terms of sunscreen use, topical antioxidants and skin barrier support.

• Get rational about your skincare:

  No-one needs 15 different products on the go at any one time. Invest wisely in high-quality leave-on products that have proven active ingredients and save on smart, economic buys that don’t have to cost the earth. Splurge on: a good-quality vitamin Cserum will benefit the complexion of most.

Like Dr Bunting,  Dr Ruhul Amin, co-founder and Medical Director of Rejuvence Clinic in East London say investing in products with effective, active ingredients is a must.

His practice focuses solely on cosmetic procedures and he laments that many products on the market for anti-aging “are useless and do not deliver. This is usually because their active ingredient is ineffective, too low in concentration or too large a molecule to penetrate the skin.”

But he says there are “a core group of essential components that have been scientifically shown in multiple studies to have beneficial effects.”

These include glycolic acid, retinols (vitamin A), and Vitamin C  and as such he swears by the following 3 things:

• Go Glycolic and get that make up off: Use a good cleanser containing glycolic acid every night. You need to get all the makeup off, I mean every little bit of makeup off! Unfortunately, many people are not good at cleansing the skin. Bits of makeup clog the skin pores.   A good cleanser with glycolic acid exfoliates the dead skin cells and encourages skin renewal so your skin looks refresh and healthy.
• Retinol every night: this helps stimulate the skin into producing collagen & speed cell turnover to even out discoloration and smooth the skin, so less wrinkles Retinol benefits both the upper and deeper layers of the skin. It repairs damaged cells, improves natural hydration as well increase skin thickness. In the deeper layers retinol increases collagen and elastin as well as hyaluronic acid.

Tip: The higher the strength of retinol, the more impressive are its effects. However, if you aren’t used to it can cause tingling, dryness, peeling  in the initial stages and redness that requires a few weeks to get used. Starting on a lower strength and using it every second or third night until your skin can tolerate it are ways you can reduce these effects. And remember, always use a sunscreen if you are using retinol products.

• Vitamin C serum for the daytime: Vitamin C is ultimate skin-brightening & anti-oxidant serum.  Vitamin C is an antioxidant that slows the rate of free-radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage collagen and cause skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C has been shown to counteract that and can help with collagen production and decreasing pigmentation as well.

Dr Christine Or is an award-winning aesthetic doctor and founder of Dr. Christine Medical Aesthetics based in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. Her top tips for 2018 are:

• Never leave home without Sunscreen: Wear sunscreen (at least SPF 30) every day throughout the year, even on cloudy and rainy days as damaging UV rays can penetrate through cloud. They can also penetrate glass, so even if you work in an office or drive a car, you still need to protect your skin daily. Make it part of your daily morning skincare routine to add in a sunscreen to prevent potential skin cancers and slow the ageing process in the skin….and don’t forget to put some on your hands too!
• Clean your screen: Avoid putting your mobile phone to your face. Not only do mobile phones release radiation and blue light which is said to cause premature wrinkles, bacteria from the phone can cause breakouts and the warmth from the phone can cause pigmentation spot to develop in the skin. Use antioxidants such as vitamin C serums, to combat the effects of blue light and radiation and use hands-free devices such as headsets.

Tip: A good tip is to give your mobile phone a clean with an antibacterial wipe every day too if you want to avoid breakouts!

Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist and medical director of the Tarrant Street Clinic in Arundel in West Sussex suggests:

• Sort out your sensitive skin. In my view it is not sensitive skin, but sensitised skin. It is cleansers that strip skin that start to damage the skin barrier, over- exfoliating and not keeping skin suitably hydrated that starts to cause skin barrier issue and dryness, redness sensitivity. Find a good skin care regime that keeps skin calm, hydrated and hopefully glowing
• Eat anti-oxidant rich fruit and veggies: Anti-oxidants help protect against all that free radical damage from pollution, stress, UV exposure. In addition to starting with a good vitamin C that is stable and effective and applied daily, there is no substitute for a healthy diet with fruit and vegetables to boost the our anti-oxidants. Think berries such as blueberries, black grapes, pomegranates etc. If you are tempted by an oral anti-oxidant supplement look for resveretrol and anthocyanins amongst others.
• Stop smoking: Not only will this be the most important health step you will ever make but it will save your skin. Smoking both wipes out important vitamins such as vitamin C  – our natural anti-oxidant –  it  also up regulates enzymes that breakdown collagen and elastin.
• Think about gut health- pre and probiotics: If you have developed skin issues such as Rosacea,  or your acne has got worse, consider gut symptoms. Quite often when I see an individual with worsening skin I notice in the history it has followed a period of illness where high dose antibiotics have been used. I have seen others who have had bowel surgery and suddenly have terrible Rosacea. I always address this and talk about probiotic supplements and pre-biotic foods that can encourage the natural gut flora such as garlic, leeks, onions etc. I like the probiotic Symprove that has trials to support it. It is worth considering
• Exercise: We know that this boosts the body’s natural anti-oxidants and is so important for cardiac health, and also boosts our mental health. Just start, get some trainers on and walk out of the house, a regular brisk walk has enormous benefits. I believe that exercising helps us to make healthier dietary choices. Sugar should be avoided if you want to protect your collagen, as we know that through a mechanism called glycation, collagen is damaged by spikes in sugar. So, make a resolution to go for that walk at lunchtime and avoid that quick fix chocolate bar!

That’s plenty of food for thought for 2018. May it be your year to shine!

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Serves 2 – 4

Ingredients:

– 2 – 3 bunches fresh basil

– ¼ cup Pine nuts
(or more to taste)

– Extra-virgin olive oil
- to your desire

– 1 tbsp Nutritional Yeast flakes
 (or more to taste)

– ½ Garlic clove, or more to taste

– Himalayan Salt (to taste)

Method:  

1. Roughly chop your basil and place half the amount in your blender along with the other ingredients
2. Optional (You can lightly toast your pine nuts on the stove before adding them in, this can give more flavour).
3. Blend until smooth, but not so it’s left with no texture at all!
4. Taste and adjust your seasoning to your desire

The post Vegan Pesto appeared first on Aimee Victoria Long.

Serves: 4 as a starter or 2 as a main

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes

Ingredients: 

2 medium floury potatoes, peeled (about 450g)

1 tablespoon of sunflower oil

15g butter

4 slices smoked salmon or trout

4 tablespoons soured cream

A few sprigs dill to garnish

4 tablespoons of The English Provender Co.’s Beetroot Pickle

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method: 

For the rösti, coarsely grate the potatoes into a clean tea towel. Fold the towel around the potato to form a ball and squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. Season the potato with salt and black pepper, then divide into four equal portions.

Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. Add the röstis and using the back of a spoon gently push down to make a compact cake.

Fry the röstis, for 3-4 minutes on both sides, or until golden-brown all over and tender all the way through, adding a little more oil to the pan if required. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen.

Divide between 4 plates, top with a slice of salmon, a spoonful of beetroot pickle and a little soured cream. Garnish with a sprig of dill and extra freshly ground black pepper.

 Enjoy and don’t forget to try some more of my recipes! 

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In Greek mythology, Eos, the goddess of dawn, asked Zeus to give her lover Tithonus the gift of immortality. Somewhat forgetfully, she neglected to request that her lover also receive the gift of eternal youth. Over time, Tithonus continued to live, but his muscles became weaker, his skin grew wrinkled and less supple; it began to sag. Despite immortality, Tithonus’ body and its largest organ, the skin, continued to undergo the process of aging.

Skin aging is a complex process involving a wide range of structural, hormonal and genetic changes. Depending on the cause of these changes, we can distinguish between two types of aging: extrinsicand intrinsic. Extrinsic aging refers to the changes that result from exposure to things outside of the body, such as UV radiation from the sunlight or toxins from tobacco smoke. By contrast, intrinsic aging refers to the body’s internal changes that happen with the passage of time. Intrinsic aging is largely determined by your genes.

As a result of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes, aged skin becomes like that of Tithonus: less firm and wrinkled. Aged skin has a thinner epidermis (the outer layer of skin), less elasticity and, along with other key molecules, a decreased content of collagen – an important structural protein.

Given this loss of collagen in the skin during aging, and the fact that collagen’s in topically applied creams are generally too large to penetrate the skin’s outer layer, it seems plausible, at least intuitively, that replenishing the levels of collagen through oral supplements – ready made drinks or powders you mix to make a collagen drink  – could counteract the aging process. Of course, intuitions are not necessarily born out by empirical scientific studies. So, what does the science say?

Oral collagen supplements

Once in the digestive system, collagen gets broken down into smaller collagen peptides. Despite much controversy over where these peptides go to next, studies using radioactive compounds to track their movement  have indeed shown that collagen peptides can eventually end up in the skin. But, does orally administered collagen go on to improve the skin once it’s there?

Let’s take a look.

Clinical trials of a 10g oral collagen supplement

In 2015, clinical trials studied the effect of a 10g oral supplement containing collagen peptides derived from either fish or pig cartilage. The trials reported significant improvements in skin moisture and collagen density. After 12 weeks, collagen density in the dermis was shown to increase by 9%.

The studies, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, also investigated the effect of the 10g supplement on the degradation of collagen in the skin, a process that occurs in aging. Using a technique called “reflectance confocal microscopy”, researchers were able to look at collagen fibres in the skin using a microscope and assess whether or not they were fragmented. They found that the collagen supplement significantly reduced collagen fragmentation in the dermis over 12 weeks. This result, the authors suggest, demonstrates the product’s anti-aging potential.

There are, however, some limitations to the these studies. The trial investigating the effect on skin moisture only had 33 people – a fairly small sample size.  It is also worth bearing in mind that the above studies were conducted by the very same company that manufactures the supplement. 

Open-label study of a 50ml collagen drink

In a similar fashion, another leading manufacturer has published studies on its own product: a 50 ml nutritional drink that contains 5g collagen, hyaluronic acid and other vitamins and minerals. One study, published in the journal Clinical Interventions in Aging, looked at the effect of taking the drink over 60 days. Dermatologists observed the skin the 217 subjects and reported fewer wrinkles, less dryness and a reduction in the depth of nasolabial folds (skin folds that extend from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth). A smaller group of subjects also had their skin tested with ultrasound equipment, in order to assess the density of collagen in the dermis. The authors reported a 12-19% increase in collagen density after 12 weeks.

Although it had a large number of subjects, this study was what clinicians call an “open-label” study. This means that there was no placebo control group and it was “unblinded” – researchers (and subjects) knew which individuals were taking the supplement. A lack of blinding increases the risk of the researchers unwittingly biasing the results. Furthermore, the lack of placebo control group makes it difficult to pinpoint any of the reported benefits specifically onto the collagen supplement. Clearly, a large, double-blinded randomised controlled trial is required to more thoroughly assess the benefits of the collagen-containing drink. .

Clinical trial of 2.5g and 5g collagen supplement

In contrast to the previously mentioned study, Proksch and colleagues did manage to conduct a double-blinded, placebo-controlled study of a commercially available collagen supplement. For 8 weeks, subjects were given either a placebo or a supplement containing either 2.5 or 5g of collagen peptides. Skin elasticity was measured by technique that involves applying a suction cylinder to the skin. The vacuum causes the skin to stretch. When the vacuum is stopped, more elastic skin (with a higher content of collagen) will return to its original position more readily.

Compared to the placebo group, those taking the supplement (at either the 2.5g or 5g dose) showed a significant increase in skin elasticity after 8 weeks. This improvement in skin elasticity was also sustained for 4 weeks after subjects stopped taking the supplement. There were no reported differences between the dosage groups i.e. the benefits were the same regardless of whether a person was taking the 2g or 5g collagen supplement. Despite these improvements in skin elasticity, the supplement failed to improve measures of skin hydration and roughness of skin.

Open-label study of a 1g collagen supplement

In small study conducted over 12 weeks, 26 women took a daily 1g collagen peptide supplement derived from chicken cartilage. By the end, their skin boasted significantly fewer wrinkles, less dryness and reduced scaling. There was also a significant increase in collagen content after 6 weeks of taking the supplement.

Unsurprisingly, the small sample size makes this a fairly low quality study. Augmenting this, it was another “open label” study without blinding and a controlled group.

Take home message

So, what can we conclude from these scientific studies? Would the aging Tithonus have benefitted from taking oral collagen supplements? Put simply, the evidence that such supplements can rejuvenate the skin is mixed. While demonstrating positive results, existing studies have been let down by either small sample sizes or an inadequate control group. As is often the case in medicine, more research is required.

This is not to say that collagen supplements do not show promise. Studies do suggest that, in stark contrast to collagen-containing creams, oral supplements may be a viable way of getting collagen into your body. Of course, so is eating a healthy and balanced diet. Similarly, using adequate sun protection and avoiding smoking will respectively protect against the degradation of collagen that follows exposure to UV light and toxins (extrinsic ageing). For further advice on keeping the skin healthy, it is best to consult your GP or dermatologist. – Harley Street Emporium 

On a personal note 

I have recently started adding Vita Glow  peach flavour into my daily routine and have been for the past month or so and have definitely started to notice a difference in the strength of my nails and overall complexion.

The Peach Vida Glow Marine Collagen is the perfect compliment to your water bottle, fruit tea, juice, yoghurt or morning porridge.

This delicious addition to their range contains natural Peach flavour and natural Peach Juice powder. Peaches are rich in phytochemicals called phenols that act as antioxidants. Both peaches and marine collagen are rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants are essential for healthy hair, skin and nails as they help protect cells from damage.

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We just launched a social media campaign @quarterlifehealthproject. Follow us, connect with others & share your story!

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Have you ever looked in the mirror and noticed dimpling of the skin on your buttocks or thighs? You are not alone. Most women, even very fit thin women, have cellulite and it can be a major concern, affecting self-esteem.

Not surprisingly there are a host of products and treatments ranging from massages to invasive procedures which claim to banish cellulite. Although no treatment at present is a permanent solution, the good news is that some treatments do better than others in decreasing the appearance of cellulite.

Who is affected by cellulite?

Between 80-90% of post-pubertal women have it. Men are also affected, but have a slightly different architecture to their skin,fat and connective tissue which makes them less likely to develop cellulite.

What is cellulite or ‘peau d’orange’ (orange skin)?

Cellulite is dimpling on the surface of the skin, accentuated by raised areas in between.

Structurally, there are fibrous bands of connective tissue that go from the skin surface down to dermal and the hypodermal fat, connecting to muscles underneath.

When these bands of tissue harden and become less flexible, it tethers down the skin at the points of attachment which results in bulges or pockets or fat in between.

It tends to form on thighs, hips, buttocks, arms and abdomen.

Factors that determine who gets cellulite include:

1. Being a woman – women tend to develop more cellulite than men.
2. Aging – it contributes to a loss of skin suppleness.
3. Weight gain – this can exacerbate the appearance of cellulite (including pregnancy).
4. Genetics – this plays a role too.

How can I get rid of cellulite?

Is there one single treatment that gets rid of cellulite forever? Unfortunately, no.  There are many treatments that can help improve the appearance of cellulite, but it can recur in future as aging and genetics determine your skin’s future.

So, let’s see what does and doesn’t work.

Acoustic wave therapy – YES

Acoustic wave therapy, also called extracorporeal pulse activation therapy (EPAT) uses a handheld transducer which emits low-intensity sound waves and pulses.  These acoustic waves break down the fat beneath the skin and promote microcirculation leading to increased collagen and elastin synthesis, making the skin denser/firmer and visibly improve appearance. It usually take several repeated treatments in order to achieve the desired effect. The skin elasticity improves and certain studies show it lasting up to 6 months.

Laser treatment – YES

Lasers are useful as they are less invasive than many other techniques. In this case, the laser is used to target tough connective tissue bands responsible for the dimpling effect. The skin is also stimulated to become a bit thicker, which is desirable (since thinning of the skin tends to accentuate tugging of the bands).

After local anaesthetic is injected into the area, a small cannula is inserted into the skin and the laser helps to break down the bands. The pulses of laser promotes collagen production. As fat is liquified from the heat, it can be removed. Cellulaze™ – one of the treatment brands claims it can reduce the appearance of cellulite for a year or longer.  More research is needed in future to determine how effective these treatments are.

Subcision – YES

Yes it works. It is a surgical technique which is more invasive than the above technique. The fibrous strands are manually cut which means that your treatment is very much dependent on the experience of the practitioner. Some studies have shown it to be effective but it may work best when combined with other therapies to tighten the skin.

Vacuum-assisted precise tissue release – YES

Similar to the Subcision, this treatment was developed in order to give better control over the tissue release or bands being cut. It uses a microblade which is vacuum-assisted and the blade oscillates to provide more precision. Cellfina is an example of this type of procedure.

Carboxytherapy: MAYBE

Carbon dioxide is infused into the affected areas of cellulite, just beneath the skin. One small studyseemed to demonstrated a slight improvement.  More research is needed.

Endermologie® : MAYBE

Hoover your thighs?  The technique was developed in the 1980’s in France by Louis Guy Pitay (who founded the LGP company). An enthusiastic massage with vacuum, it is a mechanical method to help to smooth out the skin and somewhat disrupt some of those tethers or bands that the fat bulges on either side of. Some studies have shown no effect at all, others have demonstrated improvement although the cellulite tends to return within 1 month of stopping treatment.

Creams and lotions: Retinol YES, the others NO

Many lotions and potions claim to be the cure. According to the Mayo clinic, no studies have sufficiently demonstrated that creams including vitamins, herbs, antioxidants, minerals or any other combinations eliminate cellulite.  Additionally, many can lead to allergic reactions and rashes. The only topical cream that has really shown any evidence of having an effect on cellulite is 0.3% retinol applied two times a day (some results are seen after 6 months). Retinol naturally stimulates collagen and elastin production and even has an inhibitory effect on fat cell production (lipogenesis).

Ionithermie cellulite reduction treatments: NO

A spa-like treatment where you are having a type of body mud mask and then attached to some electrodes with low voltage current, there is no current evidence that it works.

Cryolipolysis : NO

Cryolipolysis (sometimes referred to as cool sculpting) tends to be very effective in sculpting as opposed to breaking down those fibrous bands. While it may be good for fat lose, it is not recommended as a treatment for cellulite.

Mesotherapy : NO

Injections into the cellulite area may include caffeine, aminophylline, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, hormones or herbal extracts.  There is no clear evidence to show that it works. Allergic reactions, rashes, lumps under the skin and infection may occur.

Supplements: NO

There is no evidence that supplements reduce cellulite.

Massage: NO

Although your skin may look and feel improved, the results will not be lasting.

Weight loss and Exercise: Good for your health, variable effects on cellulite

If you gain weight, your cellulite might be more visible. If your muscles are toned and lean, they can make the skin look smoother and draw less attention to the dimpling. Eating well and exercise might help with the appearance of your skin, but neither will completely eliminate cellulite.

More options in the future:

More studies are needed to determine the efficacy of laser-assisted liposuction and ultrasonic liposculpting. They may provide newer options to consider alone or in combination with other cellulite treatments. Remember to discuss your skin type with your dermatologist or plastic surgeon for tailored treatments to your needs.

by Harley Street Emporium

Read more on my beauty topics here 

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The perfect way to end an arm session, loved this little finisher Maria taught me! 5-5-5 and repeat 3 times without rest, you will definitely be feeling it.

The post Bicep Finisher – Find Your Workout Buddy appeared first on Aimee Victoria Long.

Repeat this shoulder triset 3-5 times! #TrainWithAim

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In 2016 a UK Sleep Survey revealed that over 61% of people living in the UK are dissatisfied with their quality of sleep. 64% have also occasionally expressed not waking up with as much energy as they would like. Having sleepless nights are common culprits of a short temper, poor levels of concentration and a fragile immune system. If you’ve started the day desperate for another hour of sleep, meditation is a good place to start.

How does meditation lead to a better night’s sleep?

Meditation guides you through ways to gain control over your behaviour in the present moment by focusing on your physical, psychological and emotional sensations while you experience them. With a stronger awareness, it becomes possible to make conscious decisions to help yourself have a restful sleep.

1. Meditation reduces stress

Arguably one of the most common root causes of lack of sleep is underlying stress. Meditation has been proven to reduce stress by bringing our minds to the present moment, so that we worry less about the future and ruminate less about the past. In the moment, we realise that there is no need to activate our “flight or fight” response over casual matters such as spilling coffee. With practice, meditation reduces our exaggerated stress response in daily life, as we gain more perspective and become calmer.

2. Meditation boosts melatonin

Melatonin is a hormone in the body that encourages sleep. Vincent Giampapa, MD, discovered that melatonin levels for regular meditation practitioners were boosted by an average of 98%.

3. Meditation triggers relaxing brain waves

When we are awake, our brain is lead by beta waves that keeps us present and engaged; however when it comes to going to sleep our brains need more Alpha, Theta & Delta waves as these encourage deeper relaxation and deep sleep. Meditation keeps beta brain waves at bay. By meditating before sleep, our brains cancel out any Beta waves that may be carrying anxiety or stress into the night and prepare the brain to sleep. 

To start reclaiming your healthy sleeping habits through meditation have a look at Inhere’s sleep programme.

By Inhere meditation studio

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When you pack for a summer holiday, no do doubt your sunscreen has its spot next to your beach wear. But good sun protection isn’t just for the beach. No matter where you are a daily Sun Protection Factor (SPF) all year round is vital for protecting the skin against the harmful effects of the sun’s rays.

And if you are not wearing sunscreen every day, it’s time to rethink that decision. Unlike many of us, the sun doesn’t take a break and neither should you from protecting yourself from its harmful rays as they are the number one cause of skin aging and skin cancer.

According to Cancer Research UK the rates of skin cancer (melanoma) in the UK have increased by 119% since the early 1990’s. Betweeen 2004-2015 there was a 45% increase in incidence. It’s usually found in older people – the 70+ age group, but that doesn’t mean it’s a disease of the aged – it’s the sun exposure that these people got when they were younger that has caused the melanoma years later.

How does this happen?

Ultraviolet (UV) rays come in three forms – two of which are the predominant cause of sun damaged skin including everything from sunspots to skin cancer:

• UVA –UVA rays are present throughout the day and are the most significant cause of premature aging of the skin including of fine lines and wrinkles and are a key contributor to various types of non-melanoma skin cancers such as basal cell carcinomas (BCC) and squamous cell carcinomas (SCC) as well as other pre-cancerous conditions like actinic or solar keratosis.
• UVB – UVB rays are the rays that burn and are strongest between 10 am to 4 pm. They are responsible for sunburn and the potentially deadly skin cancer – melanoma. UVB rays are heavily dependent on cloud cover and atmospheric conditions, but even when it’s cloudy and grey, they can get through.

It’s frightening to think that globally 2-3 million non-melanoma skin cancers and 130,000 malignant melanomas are diagnosed each year according to the World Health Organization (WHO) as a result of exposure to these harmful rays.

The photo-damage it causes to our skin is also well documented. Prolonged sun exposure leads to:

• Premature wrinkling
• Sagging skin
• Leathery texture
• Hyperpigmentation (solar lentigos, age spots, liver spots, freckles etc)

And even though the sun in Northern Europe isn’t as strong as in the tropics, it can still cause skin damage. Studies done on identical twins in a variety of countries show that those who spend more time in the sun have deeper wrinkles, saggier skin and have aged much more than their shade-seeking sibling.

SPF everyday

Luckily we have a strong defence against the sun’s dark arts: broad-spectrum SPF.

If you aren’t using a SPF it only takes about 20 minutes for skin to burn. Sunburn, the most immediate and obvious example of UVB damage. When you burn immune cells called mast cells to race to the injured skin site where they dilate the blood vessels and produce reddening, swelling, and burning sensations, even blistering, as part of the healing process.

This burning damages the cell’s DNA and can be the first step towards skin cancer.

Reddening of the skin is a reaction to UVB rays alone and tells you little about what UVA damage you may be getting. Plenty of damage can be done without the red flag of sunburn being raised.

According to Harley Street consultant dermatologist, Penelope Tympanidis, it’s as though our skin has a memory and it stores all the damage and later in life it comes back to haunt you in the form of sun spots, premtaurely aged skin and BCC’s and SCC’s.

Even when working work inside you are exposed to UV radiation for brief periods throughout the day when you come and go from the office – and remember, UVA can penetrate glass, so if your desk is by a window or you drive a lot, put your SPF on regularly.

But which sunscreen to pick?

Sunscreens are commonly rated and labelled with SPF that measures the fraction of sunburn-producing UV rays that reach the skin.

Most sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher do an excellent job of protecting against UVB but most cancer authorities recommend an SPF of at least 20-30. SPF is a measure of a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB from damaging the skin. No sunscreen can block all UV rays. Those that claim to block out 100% of the sun’s rays have not been shown to be much more effective than a SPF 50.

• SPF 15 filters out approximately 93 % of all incoming UVB rays.
• SPF 30 keeps out 97 %
• SPF 50 keeps out 98%.
• As a guide an SPF15 can prevent you from burning for around 15 times longer than unprotected skin, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.And remember: No sunscreen, irrespective of strength, should be expected to stay effective for longer than two hours, so it is vital that it’s reapplied every couple of hours.So now we know that a cloudy day is an excuse to skip the sunscreen. And as Dr Tympanidis says, it doesn’t have to be a separate product – there are plenty of moisturisers that have a good SPF in them.So even when it’s overcast, reach for moisturisers, serums, and other skin care products containing an SPF of at least 15. These products can help protect your skin from UV damage and prevent your skin from premature aging.

  Remember, the best defence against sun damage is prevention.

  (If you’re worried about your Vitamin D levels – please see our article on Vitamin D. )

Here at Harley Street Emporium we recommend:

1. Exuviance Age reverse Day Repair SPF30:It fights the daily stressors that age skin and so skin appears firmer and younger.
   • UV filters and a triple antioxidant complex of Pomegranate and Vitamins A and E, help repair and protect the skin
   • A triple firming complex of Peptides, Retinol and patented NeoGlucosamine® boost collagen for firmer, smoother looking skin
   • Retinol and NeoGlucosamine® lightly exfoliate, increase cell renewal, diminish the appearance of uneven pigment and fine lines

Wh2. NeoStrata Sheer Physical Protection SPF50

An ultra-sheer, mineral-based matte skincare treatment that  is formulated to provide photostable, broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection with a universal tint that blends with skin’s natural tone. It protects the skin and its powerful antioxidants help protect the skin from further sun damage as well as helping repair it.

Read more beauty pieces – here 

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